Day 13 (Aug 26)

For breakfast, a spare French Dip sandwich leftover from last night's feast at The Beach. (They were running a special: a second sandwich for only 2 dollars more. I couldn't resist.)

We wind through the urban trails on the east edge of St. Catherines and down to the Welland Canal, which connects lakes Erie and Ontario. The trail crosses at this impressive draw bridge:

(Technically it's a "lift bridge" since it goes straight up and down. On this one the control room is housed at the top of the span, so the operator rides up and down with the bridge!)

Probably the sign is illegible, but the bridge is unfortunately closed for repairs from 10 to 4, and we've arrived at 10:30. Fortunately the workmen say they'll escort us over. But right now a ship is approaching, so we'll have to wait for it to pass.

The ship is the Federal Sakura, a bulk carrier (for goods like grain or ore) registered in Panama but flying the Canadian colors as well. The whole process takes about 20 minutes, then we're escorted across.

This is actually known as the "Fourth Welland Canal" as the same basic route has been re-dug for ever-larger ships since its inception in 1932. (A fifth version is planned by 2030.)

The trail takes us alongside an earlier canal, maybe the third?

Much too small for the likes of the Federal Sakura. Also here is a delicious abandoned apple orchard! And we go straight through a golf course, baffling us and the golfers.

We pass through the famous Screaming Tunnel without incident, and back up onto the Escarpment for the last few kilometers of Bruce Trail. It's great to be back up on the cliffs again, with little sinkholes and even a cool breezy cave to give us a bit of relief from the heat. And without warning, it's over. We're in the parking lot of Queenston Heights Park, where a monument marks the Bruce Trail's southern terminus.

We elect to take a celebratory pause for the night in the South Landing Inn ("Prior to 1814") in the tiny old village of Queenston below. Before the Welland Canal, this was an important shipping port, the closest spot to Niagara Falls where ships could safely dock and unload westbound cargo. It's also where the Americans invaded in 1812 and were repelled by brave General Brock, though it cost him his life. A gaudy dresser who insisted on personally leading counter-charges with his sword drawn, he was an easy target for the American musketmen and was shot through the chest. 

A huge pillar monument in the park honors General Brock. Next to this pillar, we learn, is the only restaurant within walking distance of our inn. So I bravely charge back up the Escarpment like the Americans in 1812, and retrieve our celebratory dinner to go. Tomorrow, Niagara Falls and Buffalo, USA!